Runway Review | Rochas Fall 2014

Rochas Redux

The revolving door that is the house of Rochas most recently installed Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the designer behind a namesake collection, as well as Milan-based line No. 21, in the creative hot seat. Designers Olivier Theyskens and Marco Zanini also have taken a crack at resurrecting founder Marcel Rochas’ storied label steeped in fragrance before departing for Theory and Schiaparelli, respectively.

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So how has the Neapolitan acclimated to his new French gig? By going big on the fashion front. His inaugural collection for Fall 2014 favors rich materials like velvets, jacquards and brocades, along with equally statement-making, voluminous silhouettes including full peplums. He wasn’t afraid of embellishment either—crystals, tassels and sequins cascade down pieces as unexpectedly prim as pencil skirts and gloves.

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For a house that doesn’t have a lot of DNA to work with clothing wise, he managed to create cohesion through excess. Looking forward to Resort 2015, a theme of French and Italian gardens links Rochas’ past and present. Here’s to the happy marriage.

Shop current products at Marissa Collections: Rochas