Runway Review | Rag & Bone Resort 2015:
It's a funny old season, Resort. One minute you're looking at sundresses and bikinis, and then the next designer you see is showing coats and sweaters. Momentum seems in favor of the latter: Resort clothes arrive in stores circa October—hardly bikini season. Those stores are in the market for more "buy now/wear now" clothes, and as Marcus Wainwright asked rhetorically this afternoon, apropos of the new Rag & Bone collection, "Do you 'resort'?" Wainwright and partner David Neville are keenly attuned to their customer's lifestyle, and they make it their business not to offer her fantasies but to elevate her reality. Or, to put that another way, this Rag & Bone collection was about coats and sweaters, not bikinis. And not just coats and sweaters, although the slouchy leopard-patterned jumper had a lot of appeal, and the cotton moleskin coats were a collection standout, particularly a mannish version in pale pink. Other October-appropriate looks included a pony-hair blazer, also printed in leopard; a slinky velvet leisure suit; and denim-inspired skirts and jackets executed in rose-toned suede.
Texture was key, in other words, as was the emphasis on looks that could transition from season to season. The signature piece may have been the waistband-free A-line shorts, done in leather or lightweight suiting fabric, which had the chillaxed air of skate shorts but didn't ape that look exactly. The shorts contributed to the collection's overarching sense of ease—the one quality it shared with that more traditional, escapist concept of "resort."
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