Runway Review| Peter Pilotto Resort 2015

Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos have put an emphatic stamp on engineered prints. These days, they're keen to expand their repertoire and push into other categories, and their new Resort collection is a reflection of that. There was a strong emphasis on knits. A slouchy-fit color-blocked cable sweater came perched above an embroidered pencil skirt in the same colors. It had a nice, everyday appeal. More compelling were the densely knit intarsia sweaterdresses. The fit of those dresses was great, and it was fun to see Pilotto and De Vos exercising their wit: Note the meta-nature of the version that featured an intarsia of yarn loops, lifted from a 1970s knitwear book. Jacquards are relatively new territory, as well, but there was nothing amateurish about their results. A strapless dress with a similar looping design was coolly graphic.

 As for prints—the bread and butter of this five-year-old brand practically since its inception—they've done some evolving. As flattering as engineered prints can be, there's something a tad clinical (cold even?) about them. Perhaps sensing that, Pilotto and De Vos have given their new ones an organic touch, using various floral and marble-like motifs and giving them "ripped" edges, as if they were collages that had been assembled by hand rather than by computer. A clever and timely advance, and very pretty, too, especially on a pair of handkerchief hem dresses.

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