Runway Review | Marni Resort 2015:
Consuelo Castiglioni's Resort had the couture-ish soul we've come to expect from Marni—the sculpted silhouettes, the painterly fabrics, the handcrafted oddity of sheer chiffons weighted with crocheted hems—but the collection's heart belonged to a leggy dynamic sportiness that had distinct echoes of the '60s. The geometric intarsias, bandeau tops, zipped polos paired with miniskirts, and micro briefs under maxi coats, all with high-energy footwear to match, had an unusually girlish zing for Marni. The same athleticism infused even a coat cut from shimmering raffia, its back and sleeves in bonded jersey.
The label's skill with skins was utilized to the energetic max with a little shift in forest green leather, which unzipped to reveal a flash of mint green leather lining, or leather jackets bonded with floral motifs, like the tulip planted on a hide shaded dusty rose. A bird-of-paradise print added a tropical flavor, but the most summery graphics were the regatta stripes artfully placed down one leg of a pair of trousers in white cotton drill.
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