“Playful curiosities come to life” is how spring at Marchesa was described in the collection statement. That idea could have gone in any direction, i.e., strange dolls or otherworldly creatures. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig decided it meant Twenties, Thirties and Fifties influences, with all the looks destined for evening — a time they are most comfortable in — though most were rendered with a more relaxed attitude than usual.

A faded blue, bias-cut silk satin dress with tulle overlay and lace insets was lovely. So were the rare glimpses of separates, most notably a chic transparent silk gauze shirt that was tucked into a crystal-embroidered skirt and shown with a matching bra top.

While some of the looks were curious — namely, a drapy number made of strung pearls — the overall effect was one of ease and elegance.

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