Brunello Cucinelli Women's Fall/Winter 2014 Collection
Always in pursuit of an aesthetic balance between naturalness and distinction, the new Brunello Cucinelli Fall/Winter collection has been conceived for the self-aware, refined woman. A painstakingly minimalist dandy who loves to explore the synergisms between the male and female worlds, in a perfect balance between “less” and “more”.
A collection that does not sacrifice the softness of light colours, the precious fibres and materials, or the refinement and minimalism of the shapes. Sartorial craftsmanship and artisanal touches enter the “active” world to create a soft luxury for the daytime and glamour for the evening.
The warm tones of crème caramel, biscuit, mink, fox, yak, and tobacco form the main palette in all the combinations, and are rhythmically alternated with specks and dashes of colour, of black and vanilla. Warm winter whites, the lightest vanillas, geyser, and marble alternate with lignite and lingerie nuances like tea rose, tutu, and cameo pinks, creating misty, evanescent atmospheres. Dark blue, Oxford blue, and crepuscular red are combined with lignite and black, becoming less formal thanks to the sparkle of satins and stones. Grape and burgundy are the purples, as alternatives to the pinks. The black tints, dark blue, blackberry, and black pearl offer alternatives for creating a more personal dark look. Copper and bronze metal speckles sparkle throughout the collection.
The pure, essential shapes invite added flourishes and decorative poetic licence. The collection moves rhythmically over a stave with male notes and female arrangements. Metal trinkets, sandy mattes, and enveloping cashmeres alternate with impeccable wool fabrics, sensual silks, sweatshirt fleeces, and mink fur.
The 1980s’ silhouettes redraw the balances and connections of contemporary luxury. Prints, embroidery, and colours recall elements of nature, stones, marble, wood, and flower petals and corollas.
Down jackets, knits, and t-shirts are shortened to above the waist, to highlight the contours of the carrot pants or reveal silk, organza, or georgette fabrics peeking out from beneath soft short & overs. A modern globetrotter who knows how to mix and match tuxedo jackets, cashmere sweatshirts, organza skirts, crêpe joggers, and soft cashmere beanies. Dense and compressed, static or fluid, but always characterized by compact but “puffy” surfaces.
An alternation of granular surfaces and animal fleeces, brushed bouclé yarns contrasting with crêpes, compact wools, and fluid silk lamés with a dynamic but discreet appearance.
A season in which wool plays a very important role in all its forms. From the women’s and high fashion world: fluid crêpes and double crêpes. From the men’s world: pinstripes, tweeds, Prince of Wales, tropical fabrics, and flannels, even polka-dotted, for a more feminine interpretation.
In pants, wool tropical fabric becomes technological: coupled with the latest generation fabrics, it guarantees warmth and is suitable for mountain resorts. The new mixed wool-cotton gabardine makes it possible to create items characterized by a perfect balance between formal and sporty tastes and with a modern appeal.
Evening wear features silky fabrics, including duchess satin, lamé, organza, and double crêpes. An important role is played by denim. Interpreted for the daytime, with washes, fabric inserts, and 3D “patchwork” applications. For the evening, blue-black denim is enriched with fashionable black jetstone appliqués.
The double, “bonded” jersey, whether simple or with polka dot embroidery, and the sartorially crafted sweatshirts continue to be of interest for interpreting travel wear and urban casual style in a “soft luxury” vein.
Nappa leather and suede are employed for a sporty, sophisticated daywear with garments inspired by the “motorcycle” world, for tailored joggers, new carrot pants, and high-waisted pencil skirts.
Squared shapes, reduced and shortened, with “widened” or highlighted shoulders, contrasting with “over” garments with slanted knits on the back to slenderize and sleeken even the broadest silhouettes. The knitwear lets itself be inspired by the sweatshirt world, freeing itself of full-fashioning and tricot finishes, to be interpreted in an “active” or “sweatshirt” vein.
Two-colour sleeves, decorative cuts, and metallic bands coexist with feminine necklines where stones, gems, and Swarovski elements interweave with soft, voluminous cashmere threads. Preciously adorned pockets and ethereal pocket squares give character to cashmere basics or informal English-style knits.
Importance is given to the jackets with revisited lapels and reduced volumes, to be worn over short dresses, to the ankle, over slouchy, jogging, or tomboy pants. The squarer shapes are conceived, on the other hand, to be worn with carrot pants. There are numerous down jackets of taffeta, water-repellent duchess satin, and solid colour or moiré pattern technical silk.
Coats are like soft armour. Double-breasted with lapels, short bomber style or zipped, with large collars, they are important in appearance and mellowed with ethereal pocket squares or fabric petals. Leathers are reinterpreted with high-tech processes and artisanal tradition. Sheepskin and furs are treated like fabrics. Thus sheepskin may be napped, sheer velour, or laser-treated for a marbled effect, while precious minks have been printed over, sprinkled with glitter, or given a “tree bark” effect.
Jetstone appliqués, sequined embroidery, and lamé details on masculine fabrics and contours make for an interesting mix of elements that blend together male and female tastes to form what we could call a “boyish charm."
Suspenders edged with metal chains or embroidered with “stone crusts” and chain “ribbons” that imitate pocket watch chains are among the details of the “dandy” women’s apparel. High-waisted and pleated pants of slim, wide, and fluid contours are a major season item.
In addition to the evergreen pencil skirt, the new season features softer silhouettes, always with a marked waistline and sometimes with asymmetrical hemlines. Whether pencil or godet, worn with “short and over” sleeveless tops, or straight and hip-hugging, skirts take the place of dresses. The superimposing of shapes, materials, and colours is a distinctive feature.
An important selection of silk tops and t-shirts. The matte crêpes and georgette fabrics, the shimmery satins, transparent organzas, or fluid lamés. A wide selection of cashmere, cotton, and crêpe sweatshirts. The t-shirts, informal sweatshirts, and more “institutional” shirts are embellished with stone-studded suspenders, organza pocket squares, shimmery beaded bow ties, and sequin-studded ties.
A large selection of evening and cocktail dresses, but also for important social events. The tulle of ballerinas meets the jackets and vests of a dandy’s wardrobe to produce long, flowing dresses. Feminine details and particulars from the male world characterize an interpretation of “evening wear” impressed with the Cucinelli DNA.
A decidedly masculine style with the addition of extremely feminine details for biker boots, riding boots, commando boots, “plain” boots, and derby boots with laces or monk straps. Numerous models with large, thick soles, sometimes with glitter and luminous effects. Heels are large and squarish. Metal tips or buckles alternate with the line of derby boots made entirely of Swarovski elements, or with luxurious ostrich skin loafers studded with diamond dust.
Extremely soft leathers are used to create deconstructed handbags using mixes of glossy, matte, and rough precious materials. Innovative crafting processes give a contemporary appearance to precious leathers such as matte calf, diamond-finish ostrich, crocodile, and python, sometimes proposed in combination with neoprene, and sometimes with “hotfix” Swarovski scales.
The belts, extra-long to be worn loose and “knotted”, or high to emphasize the waistline, are made of the finest leathers and may be embellished with stones or Swarovski scales. Buckles are reduced to the bare essential, a simple metal graphic element.
Scarves are in keeping with the mood of the collection, both in their colours and in their marbled prints or glitter pattern. Soft and ample, they are proposed in a generally lighter palette that ranges from warm colours to the full range of pinks. In the metal details, there is a large use of hematite, a luminous metallic stone that is proposed in various finishes: silver-plated, gold-, or copper-plated.
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