Erdem Resort 2014

“I found some amazing pictures of my mum on holiday,” said Erdem Moralioglu of his initial inspiration for resort, adding that he wanted the season to reflect a true holiday — “Like a teenage girl going away on a school trip.” His traveling ingénue has a tomboy streak, with masculine touches in a black lace boiler suit, lace and jersey trousers (a hybrid of pajamas and track pants), cotton poplin shirting, a spotted jacquard tuxedo and a silk and cotton jersey bomber. He used couture fabrics in Fifties and Sixties shapes, and riffed on his love of bad taste with a print taken from tacky hotel curtains on a full skirt and dress. Moralioglu embroidered ultralightweight organza with flowers in ladylike dresses and blouses, while a black floral fil coupé and matelassé made for dramatic full shapes. Contrasts of texture were playful yet sophisticated, and fabric development added a dose of luxury, especially in dainty dresses of a lightweight floral Neoprene that flounce as flirtatiously as a young girl on holiday should.