When Raf Simons signed on as Dior’s new creative director, he did his homework in mining the archives. Clearly inspired by the house’s New Look that put it on the fashion map in 1947, his premiere collection ushered in a Forties craze of ladylike silhouettes such as nipped waists in signature Bar jackets and men’s-inspired suiting. All of a sudden, minis didn’t seem so sophisticated next to longer hems whether flared or slim skirts. Strong shoulders return as well, though not as dramatic as those in the Big Eighties thanks to fabric and construction innovation. And by all means, dust off Aunt Myrtle’s fox stole.

marc jacobs fall 2013

lanvin fall 2013